1 March 2003
Hong Kong Jewellery Design Competition(HKTDC Jewellery, Vol 01,2003)
Hong Kong Jewellery Design Competition
In Harmony With Nature
Wong Chui Lin's winning ring, entitled "Flower", depicts a flower in bloom with its petals dancing in a light breeze. Sponsored by Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Co Ltd, Wong's creation triumphed in the ring category for items with retail prices at HK$20,000 or less.
"When the theme of the competition - Harmony of Colour - was first mentioned, my imagination was immediately triggered by beautiful flowers; their marvellous colours and passionate shapes when in full bloom," recalls Wong. "Moreover, I think both flowers and jewellery are related in the sense that both can bring joy and happiness to our simple lives."
To project a delicate yet elegant image, Wong used 84 pieces of gold and brown tone canary diamonds totalling 1.25 carats to encrust a spherical centre. This was topped with a dazzling white, round diamond of 0.25 carats, which echoes six other white diamonds totalling 0.47 carats that rest on the tip of six animated petals.
"The upper layer of petals, which are intricately designed so that it can move slightly, are made from 18K rose gold; while the lower layer is 18K white gold electroplated in black," explains Wong. "The 18K gold of the whole ring weighs 31 grams."
It took one month for Wong to conceptualise her universal image of a flower on paper, and nearly one-and-a-half months to produce the finished piece.
This is the latest in a string of prizes Wong has won in more than 15 years working for Chow Tai Fook Jewellery, including the same award in the inaugural Hong Kong Jewellery Design Competition when she entered a handmade necklace.
Fellow winner Simmy Chow went further afield in search of inspiration, the theme of the competition prompting her to consider outer space. "Harmony of Colour made me think of those mysterious rings of light which surround different planets," says Chow.
Entitled "Shuttle", the designer's entry won in the earrings category for retail items priced at HK$30,000 or less. The winning creation features a pair of stunningly modern earrings made up of trails of fine interlocking rings further linked by a number of beaded axes.
"The construction of the trail is deliberately designed in this way so that it moves as the wearer does, adding liveliness to the whole design," explains the young designer.
The rings are also thoughtfully designed so that they fall in descending size, which enhances the overall aesthetic appeal as well as achieving a lighter weight to aid movement.
Sponsored by Tse Sui Luen Jewellery Co Ltd, the earrings use two sparkling, round brilliant 0.15 carat diamonds on the top of the earring. The rings are made from 15.6s grams of 18K white gold and 8.8 grams of 18K yellow gold, providing a total weight of 24.4 grams.
Chow joined Tse Sui Luen Jewellery two years ago, having graduated from her jewellery design studies. "Sketching on paper is very different from making a real product," she admits. "For this pair of earrings, we tried and tried to achieve the desired movement of the trail, and production took a whole month."
The magnificence of the universe also inspired Winny Tsoi to design her "Halo" that won the other category section, which has no limit on retail price.
Sponsored by Luk Fook Jewellery & Goldsmith (HK) Co Ltd, Halo is a gorgeous set of three which comprises necklace, bracelet and ring made from a total of 152.65 grams of 18K yellow and white gold, encased with 859 pieces of dazzling yellow sapphire totalling 32.73 carats, and 179 pieces of sparkling white diamond adding another 3.34 carats.
"It's the harmony and peacefulness of a starry night, as well as the halo of galaxies which ignite these creations," says Tsoi. "The twinkling stars were transformed into the sapphires and white diamonds; it was a long process just choosing sapphires in different tones and lustres to resemble stars of different brightness."
The flexible strings of 18K yellow and silver gold that symbolise the halo posed another technical challenge. "It requires intricate workmanship to secure those protruding strings on both ends with the encrusted segment at the joining points," says the designer.
The whole set was finally accomplished in two months, and Tsoi was extremely satisfied with the result. "I think they look really grand in a whole set, ideal for special evening occasions yet also very wearable as separate pieces," exclaims Tsoi.
Though Tsoi is a relatively young designer, with less than two years' of working experience and solely at Luk Fook Jewellery & Goldsmith, the budding talent has already won three prizes at the Tahitian Pearl Design Trophy Contest organised by G.I.E. Perles de Tahiti in 2001.
Tsoi was also among the finalists in the necklace category of the 3rd Hong Kong Jewellery Design Competition and obviously has a bright future in a challenging and exciting field.
WRITTEN BY WINNIE HUI
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